We ate great vegetarian food in Kyoto. There's Buddhist cuisine, including Shojin Ryori, macrobiotic, and delicious, places if you know where to look. You certainly won't starve, but it isn't necessarily cheap either.
Monday 22nd of January 2018 08:36:49 PM

About The Authors

Ken Goldberg and
Kathryn Kefauver Goldberg
Berkeley, California, USA
"Watashitachi wa bejitarian desu." (We are vegetarians.)

Places we went



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18. Street Treats: The Philosopher's Walk 哲学の道--Ken

Following our great lunch at JyunSei we took a long, slow walk up the Path of Philosophy (哲学の道 Tetsugaku no Michi) in northern Higashiyama. It's a beautiful walk, under arching trees, alongside a canal, past several of the important temples and shrines in that area. The walk itself was our afternoon goal, but I still wanted to make it to Ginkakuji (The Silver Pavilion) before the rain came, or the sun went down, whichever came first.

Luckily there were no crowds at all, just a few other walkers along the way. We paused to take a lot of pictures, and poked around a dozen stores selling handmade silk, ceramics, paintings, or other chotchkes.

Kathryn learned the hard way that Aquarius (the vending machine beverage) is not water. (I drank that one.)

Woman making Yatuhashi cinnamon tile cookies
Near the nothern end of our walk, we found a sidewalk shop making making my favorite kind of cinnamon tile cookies (Yatuhashi, 八ツ橋 ?). I almost cannot not buy them when I see them. These were a little thicker than the ones at Kiyumizu-dera, and a little more irregular (in a good way). I watched the old couple going through the steps they must have done a million times: flattening the dough, cutting, shaping on the hot iron, cooling. I've eaten these on every trip to Kyoto, but seeing them working, well into retirement age, this is the first time I've wondered and hoped that there would be someone to take their place if they couldn't continue--an heir to the cinnamon tile cookie throne. I suppose all there is to do is buy some and enjoy them now.

More Cinnamon treats on the path of philosophy
Me with the Cinnamon Tile Cookie Man (Yatuhashi-ya?).

These chestnuts dot the food displays all around at this time of year.

There were some cookies here
There were some cinnamon cookies here.

Some kind of yam treats
We didn't try these but we saw them here and in Arashiyama.

Yam cookies on the Philosopher's Path
Sweet potato treats on the Philosopher's Path, not far from Ginkakuji.

Posted on Fri, Nov 16, 2007 at 11:19 PM