We ate great vegetarian food in Kyoto. There's Buddhist cuisine, including Shojin Ryori, macrobiotic, and delicious, places if you know where to look. You certainly won't starve, but it isn't necessarily cheap either.
Monday 22nd of January 2018 08:41:25 PM

About The Authors

Ken Goldberg and
Kathryn Kefauver Goldberg
Berkeley, California, USA
"Watashitachi wa bejitarian desu." (We are vegetarians.)

Places we went



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10. Street Treets: Fushimi-Inari Taisha--Kathryn

An Inari pilgrimage with a Fox theme.

On our walk to the Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine, a few stops south of the Hyatt on the Keihan line, we zizagged across the narrow street that led up to the orange gates. We oggled the endless array of cookies, cakes and tiny treats. Who needs meals when the road to every temple is gilded with sweets?

Rice cracker man
These Sembei snacks, rice crackers, came in seventeen flavors: seaweed, fish flakes, soy sauce, etc. Ken stuck with peppery green seaweed.

Inari Inari Inari
Restaurants displayed their wares like this, a boon for people like us, who can't read the Japanese menu. We stopped in one place for inari, a scrambled egg, and a pot of hot tea. After all, no Inari pilgrimage could have been complete without a plate of sweet soy.

Kitsune Cookie Man
On the way back down to the train, we had to say hi to the fox-cookie man.

With a great big smile, and his mother lingering around the small store, he makes cookie after cookie in the shape of a fox's face, pouring batter into the iron mold. and resting them over the coals. Kathryn bought a package of one kind of cookie that's like soft peanut brittle, after relieving them of several samples.

Kitsune Cookie Man 2
In tortured Japanese, Ken explained that my family name was "Fox" or Kitsune (an animal name he knows only because of its close association in Japanese mythology with sweet fried tofu.) I think they got it, because they gave me a free fox cookie that was mostly okay, but kind of a defective with burnt edges, that they couldn't sell. It was a really sweet gesture.

Then Ken held up his camera and asked to take a photo of me, my cookie, and the tiny older woman. "No no no" she smiled and childishly ran away, hiding behind me, face lowered and laughing. She was still in her house clothes and slippers, with white hair going every which way. There was no way she was going to let herself be in our photo album for all time! "OK, OK" Ken said, "OK, OK, No photo!"

Fox family good looks
We ate the fox cookie on the walk back to the train. It tasted like a very fresh fortune cookie, hot off the press.


Posted on Fri, Nov 16, 2007 at 11:20 PM